GSX 650 F Ebay Adjustable Lowering Links
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07-08-2012 | 11:04 AM
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From: Banning
GSX 650 F Ebay Adjustable Lowering Links
GSX 650 F Ebay Adjustable Lowering Links
Here is a little information on these lowering links.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/07-08-09-10-...60a9be&vxp=mtr
07 08 09 10 Suzuki GSX650F Lowering Links Link Kit
170714507710 - Price: US $79.95
I bought this for my 2009 Suzuki GSX650F.
Removal:
1) First off, you have to have some way of lifting the rear end up allowing the rear shock to de-compress. Bike lift, center stand, etc. I used a 2 ton engine lift (cherry picker) with heavy duty straps from my pickup truck. Push the engine lift straight towards the back of the bike and strap the bike from the rear foot pegs. I used 2 straps to increase the strength. Even though the straps were rate at 500+ lbs. I just needed to lift the bike just enough to get the weight of the bike off the rear shock. Both wheels still touched the ground but the kick stand came off the ground. Note that I did this at my own risk and I felt comfortable enough to lift my motorcycle this way. I always use what I have on hand to get things done.
Right Side:
1) Remove the rear brake assembly via the 3 allen screws. Use size 6mm allen tool. Remove the 2 top ones first. For the bottom one you have to press the rear brake lever down with your hand to access the 3rd allen screw. Pull the mount out as you screw the bolt out. Move and tie the rear brake assembly up and out of the way.
2) Loosen up the exhaust by removing 2 screws. I think they were 12mm or 14mm. There's 1 bolt on the muffler and the other is under the bike. The bolt under the bike holds a bracket which holds a hose. The bracket only fits one way. There are 2 tabs on the bracket that goes around the frame where it bolts up to.
3) To remove the right side dog bone, use a 17mm socket with a extension to give you room to ratchet. For the top nut remove the brake hose from the swing arm via the 2 clips. This will make room for your ratchet. To get to the bottom nut, have someone pull the exhaust down and away. Remove both nuts completely off. Then remove the dog bone. It should come off fairly loose if the rear end is lifted enough. Don't put on the new adjustable lowering links just yet, but we are done with this side.
Left Side:
1) Remove the chain guard via the 2 four head screws.
2) Remove the clutch foot peg via the 3 allen screws. Use a 6mm allen tool.
3) If the bike's rear end is lifted the 14mm bolts should just pull right out. You might need to use a screw drive to punch the bolts out from the right side. The bottom bolt has lots of room and should come out easily. For the top bolt, you have to lift the chain up to make room. The rubber chain guide on the swing arm might touch the bolt, but you should have no problem get passed it. The dog bone should come right out with the bolts.
Installation:
1) Close the new adjustable lower links all the way together. Then slowly open them up until the mounting holes match up with the stock dog bones. The reverse the removal process. Adjust the lowering links as needed to match up the mounting holes. Once you get the adjustable lowering link on the left side via the 2 bolts, you can put the right lowering link on and tighten up the 17mm nuts. You might need to hold the left bolts with a 14mm while you tighten up the 17mm nuts on the right side.
2) To adjust the links, it's easier to do it with the foot pegs out of the way. Make sure the locking nuts on the lowering links are loosened all the way out. Use a 19mm wrench. You will notice that the only way to get to the center adjusting part is through the bottom on both lowering links. Start turning one and pay attention to see if it tightens or loosens. Then farther apart the links are the lower the bike will sit. Whenever one link gets hard to turn, go around and adjust the other side.
Once you get a setting you like, hand twist the locking nuts in place. You can check to see if both links are the same length by counting the total number of thread showing on the top and bottom of the link. So if you look at the right link and count 3 threads on top and 4 threads on bottom, you have a total of 7 threads. The left side might count opposite, 4 on top and 3 on bottom. As long as the total are the same.
To tighten the lock nuts, you will notice there is hardly any room on the top. Don't worry, all you need to do is tight the bottom and the top will lock as well. First, hand tight the nuts in to lock the lowering links. Then tighten the bottom lock nut only. That will tighten the adjusting arm up into the top locking nut.
All Done:
Bolt everything up and your done. If you need to adjust the lowering links again. I would recommend removing just the right rear brake assembly to access the lowering link easier. The left side shouldn't be a problem with the clutch peg still in place.
Ride Review:
I notice the bike does loose performance out and about. The shock doesn't absorb as much of the bumps, so you feel it more. But, the pay off is greater. Being flat foot on the bike means I can clutch walk the bike easier and now I can back up on slight inclines. I don't feel uneasy about stopping anymore. Before when I stopped, I had to lean the bike over and wait for my feet to catch the ground. Now I just plant my foot down. This also makes sitting at a stop more comfortable. A negative effect of lower any bike is the kickstand. I adjusted the height just enough so the bike still has to lean slightly to sit on the kickstand. Lucky for me that height is perfect for me and I avoided having to modified or buy a kickstand. If you lower it too much the kickstand will hold the bike near a straight position. This causes a fear of the bike tipping over on the other side. This might also cause problem trying to find even ground to park on. Another thing to note is, the front should be adjusted accordingly to the rear.
Front Stock Shock Adjustments:
1) Lift the front end up to relieve pressure from the shocks. I used the engine lift again and strapped the bike around the frame and the front of the gas tank.
2) Loosen the lower clamps via the 2 10mm bolts. Go through the bottom to get to them. The top clamp is loosened from the top via a 6mm bolt. Once loosened, you should be able to move the shock up and down. Up to lower and down to raise it. Then most you can move the shock up is about 1/2 inch. Then it's hitting the handle bars. The most you can move the shock down is until it sit flush on the top. Once both side are the same height, tighten everything up and your all done.
Here is a little information on these lowering links.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/07-08-09-10-...60a9be&vxp=mtr
07 08 09 10 Suzuki GSX650F Lowering Links Link Kit
170714507710 - Price: US $79.95
I bought this for my 2009 Suzuki GSX650F.
Removal:
1) First off, you have to have some way of lifting the rear end up allowing the rear shock to de-compress. Bike lift, center stand, etc. I used a 2 ton engine lift (cherry picker) with heavy duty straps from my pickup truck. Push the engine lift straight towards the back of the bike and strap the bike from the rear foot pegs. I used 2 straps to increase the strength. Even though the straps were rate at 500+ lbs. I just needed to lift the bike just enough to get the weight of the bike off the rear shock. Both wheels still touched the ground but the kick stand came off the ground. Note that I did this at my own risk and I felt comfortable enough to lift my motorcycle this way. I always use what I have on hand to get things done.
Right Side:
1) Remove the rear brake assembly via the 3 allen screws. Use size 6mm allen tool. Remove the 2 top ones first. For the bottom one you have to press the rear brake lever down with your hand to access the 3rd allen screw. Pull the mount out as you screw the bolt out. Move and tie the rear brake assembly up and out of the way.
2) Loosen up the exhaust by removing 2 screws. I think they were 12mm or 14mm. There's 1 bolt on the muffler and the other is under the bike. The bolt under the bike holds a bracket which holds a hose. The bracket only fits one way. There are 2 tabs on the bracket that goes around the frame where it bolts up to.
3) To remove the right side dog bone, use a 17mm socket with a extension to give you room to ratchet. For the top nut remove the brake hose from the swing arm via the 2 clips. This will make room for your ratchet. To get to the bottom nut, have someone pull the exhaust down and away. Remove both nuts completely off. Then remove the dog bone. It should come off fairly loose if the rear end is lifted enough. Don't put on the new adjustable lowering links just yet, but we are done with this side.
Left Side:
1) Remove the chain guard via the 2 four head screws.
2) Remove the clutch foot peg via the 3 allen screws. Use a 6mm allen tool.
3) If the bike's rear end is lifted the 14mm bolts should just pull right out. You might need to use a screw drive to punch the bolts out from the right side. The bottom bolt has lots of room and should come out easily. For the top bolt, you have to lift the chain up to make room. The rubber chain guide on the swing arm might touch the bolt, but you should have no problem get passed it. The dog bone should come right out with the bolts.
Installation:
1) Close the new adjustable lower links all the way together. Then slowly open them up until the mounting holes match up with the stock dog bones. The reverse the removal process. Adjust the lowering links as needed to match up the mounting holes. Once you get the adjustable lowering link on the left side via the 2 bolts, you can put the right lowering link on and tighten up the 17mm nuts. You might need to hold the left bolts with a 14mm while you tighten up the 17mm nuts on the right side.
2) To adjust the links, it's easier to do it with the foot pegs out of the way. Make sure the locking nuts on the lowering links are loosened all the way out. Use a 19mm wrench. You will notice that the only way to get to the center adjusting part is through the bottom on both lowering links. Start turning one and pay attention to see if it tightens or loosens. Then farther apart the links are the lower the bike will sit. Whenever one link gets hard to turn, go around and adjust the other side.
Once you get a setting you like, hand twist the locking nuts in place. You can check to see if both links are the same length by counting the total number of thread showing on the top and bottom of the link. So if you look at the right link and count 3 threads on top and 4 threads on bottom, you have a total of 7 threads. The left side might count opposite, 4 on top and 3 on bottom. As long as the total are the same.
To tighten the lock nuts, you will notice there is hardly any room on the top. Don't worry, all you need to do is tight the bottom and the top will lock as well. First, hand tight the nuts in to lock the lowering links. Then tighten the bottom lock nut only. That will tighten the adjusting arm up into the top locking nut.
All Done:
Bolt everything up and your done. If you need to adjust the lowering links again. I would recommend removing just the right rear brake assembly to access the lowering link easier. The left side shouldn't be a problem with the clutch peg still in place.
Ride Review:
I notice the bike does loose performance out and about. The shock doesn't absorb as much of the bumps, so you feel it more. But, the pay off is greater. Being flat foot on the bike means I can clutch walk the bike easier and now I can back up on slight inclines. I don't feel uneasy about stopping anymore. Before when I stopped, I had to lean the bike over and wait for my feet to catch the ground. Now I just plant my foot down. This also makes sitting at a stop more comfortable. A negative effect of lower any bike is the kickstand. I adjusted the height just enough so the bike still has to lean slightly to sit on the kickstand. Lucky for me that height is perfect for me and I avoided having to modified or buy a kickstand. If you lower it too much the kickstand will hold the bike near a straight position. This causes a fear of the bike tipping over on the other side. This might also cause problem trying to find even ground to park on. Another thing to note is, the front should be adjusted accordingly to the rear.
Front Stock Shock Adjustments:
1) Lift the front end up to relieve pressure from the shocks. I used the engine lift again and strapped the bike around the frame and the front of the gas tank.
2) Loosen the lower clamps via the 2 10mm bolts. Go through the bottom to get to them. The top clamp is loosened from the top via a 6mm bolt. Once loosened, you should be able to move the shock up and down. Up to lower and down to raise it. Then most you can move the shock up is about 1/2 inch. Then it's hitting the handle bars. The most you can move the shock down is until it sit flush on the top. Once both side are the same height, tighten everything up and your all done.
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